Friday, June 25, 2010

2009 Bordeaux Futures - 2009 Chateau Pontet Canet Pauillac

Category: France
Size: 750 ml
Brand: Chateau Pontet Canet
Region: Bordeaux Pauillac
Varietal: Bordeaux Blend
Red Wine
Price: $154.98
Reg: $200.00

Robert Parker 97-100 Points

It's no surprise that proprietor Alfred Tesseron has produced a possibly perfect 2009. He's been on a roll since 1994, and no other producer has done more work in the vineyard than Tesseron, who has moved to 100% bio-dynamic farming, reduced yields drastically, and instituted a draconian selection process. This vineyard, which sits on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, has produced a 2009 of extraordinary intensity and purity. It is outrageously concentrated, with silky tannin (the sweetest I have ever tasted in a Pontet-Canet as well as the highest measured), an opaque purple color, and copious notes of graphite, cassis, licorice, and subtle smoke and forest floor. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with striking purity and definition, it is a wine of colossal weight as well as elegance (in itself a poster boy for this paradox in 2009). This brilliant Pauillac requires a decade of cellaring despite its voluptuous texture. It should evolve for 50-75 years. (Tasted four times.) Drink 2020-2095.

Wine Spectator 95-98 Points

Delivers aromas of blueberry skin, fresh flowers, licorice and raspberry sauce, with something exotic underneath it all. Full-bodied, with wonderful clarity and freshness. It's like looking at a full moon on a crystal-clear night in the country. This keeps coming at you, with tannins and ripe fruit. What balance, yet power to the wine. I love how the wine changes and challenges you with every sip.

Neal Martin's Wine Journal 94-97 Points

Tasted on four separate occasions, including twice at the chateau, though actually showing best at a negociant. Representing 80% of the crop, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The nose is very pure, blackberry, small black cherries, a touch of griottes, a hint of cedar and mint. Quite feminine. Not too powerful. Very fine definition. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, insistent grip and good acidity, perhaps one of the most structured, masculine Pauillac 2009s but that does not detract from the finesse and poise. But certainly there is backbone here that segues into a tertiary note towards the finish. Very focused, more minerally elements towards the finish, hints of black truffle and smoke towards the finish. Very good persistency, somehow, an assured Pontet Canet. Superb. Tasted March 2010.

Jancis Robinson 18/20 Points

Yields a bit more than in 2008, with more grand vin too. 81 ha total vineyards. This year they are trying for 24 ha by horse. They can't tell us the alcohol but think it's 13-13.5%.Very dark crimson. Firm and broad and very lively with real vibrant elderberry nose - there IS a bit of extra vitality in this wine! Very very nice and satisfying indeed. There is life to this and great breadth and depth. Intense richness that seems to come from the fruit rather than from winemaking. Something of Lafite's complexity and integrity. Plus Mouton's richness. Dry finish. Very well done. But it is not a wine you want to undertake young - still lots to sort out. Much less open than most. Dense - really quite dry on the end but appetising though very long term. Muscular. Date tasted 1st April 2010. Drink 2020-2035.

Decanter 18.5/20 Points

Dense colour and pure Cabernet blackcurrant fruit beautifully extracted with great length and perfect harmony, great purity of expression, exuberant yet restrained, great future. Drink 2016-30.

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